Boat Plans Canada | Foam

Boat Plans Canada

I sprayed foam in the engine room and aft storage room otherwise known as the Lazarette.

Im spraying a closed cell polyurethane fire retardant foam in these areas. The main reason for the foam is to stop condensation. Once the metal sees a temperature difference on the inside vs the outside, the metal will begin to condensate. Foam will insulate the metal thus preventing it from seeing the "other" temperature that will cause the "sweating".

I had spent about a month working in the engine room getting it ready for foam. I first finished painting the engine room with alkyd enamel paint. This required a manual scuffing of the primed surface so the paint would adhere. After painting the room, I bolted firing strips to the steel framing as points to attach my finish wall and ceiling material. I had debated running conduit below the foam, and even went as far as buying flexible conduit and electrical boxes to do this job. My past mistakes have taught me to not get too far ahead of myself, so I decided to attach all my conduits, pipes, wires, etc.. on the finished wall/ceiling surfaces. This will make for a more cluttered look in the engine room, but everything will be where I can get my fingers on it for maintenance and future work.

Spraying the foam is not really a do it yourself project, but I decided to do it anyway. Foaming was not as hard a job as spraying my paint, but it did require me to move at a quick pace so the material would not set up in the tip of the gun. I had bought an extra dozen tips just in case, and Im glad I did as the tips began to clog and needed frequent replacing. I wish I had gotten more yield out of the 600 board foot kit, but all in all Im pretty happy with how far the material went.

The next step for the engine room is sound deadening the room. My plan for sound proofing is to attach 1" Rock Wool boards to the framing then cover the Rock Wool with a perforated aluminum panel. The idea is that the sound waves will go through the perforations on the aluminum panel then get absorbed by the rock wool. Once I get the bulk of the sound proofing in the engine room, I can lower my generator down into the room, then weld the access hole shut, and seal the engine room for the last time.

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Boat Plans And Patterns | Finish lumber

Boat Plans And Patterns

I got a decent start this weekend on getting some finish lumber installed in the master cabin. Im using Cherry veneer plywood for the hull sides and partitions in the master cabin, and a lesser quality ( maybe Birch) for the head, hallway, and kids bunk room.

While I still think the engine rooms steel door jamb could have been a few shades lighter, Im happy as to how it looks vs the white I had initially painted the jamb. Looking at in in this picture, I must say I think it works fine.

Im using #12 1 1/2" brass wood screw to fasten all the plywood. I have a Fuller tapered drill set that does a nice job countersinking for the screw and boring for the wood bung all in one pass. Ive used some cheaper tools for this type of work, and in my opinion the cheaper stuff is junk and not worth ones time messing with. If Id have to guess, Id guess Ive used 150 screws to install the master cabin panels, and most of those will have to be plugged with bungs. Ill cut the bungs from scrap Cherry lumber, then part them on the table saw. Ill probably use a sharp chisel to pare the bung down close, then finish sand the bung with a DA sander to get it flush. Im a little worried about glue stains, but I think if I wipe each bung after tapping it home with a damp cloth, I should keep glue staining to a minimum. Im using a 1/4" x 1 1/4" batten to cover all the butt joints, so I wont have to bung those screws.

I scribed then I belt sanded to the scribe line on all the panels are perpendicular to another panel. Im happy with how the fit and finish has turned out as a playing card wont fit in any of those perpendicular joints.

I used a lower grad plywood where the bed is going because I thought I might be a sheet short. Turns out I was fine on how much material I used, but Im not complaining as you wont see any of the cheaper plywood as its behind the headboard of the bed.

Now that the master cabin space is defined, and the foam is disappearing behind that nice Cherry plywood I will now start laying out for the bed, and the various cabinets Im going to have in the cabin. I chose to have a sink in each cabin, vs a one sink in the head. The size of the master cabin and the size of the bed make installing the cabinet for the sink the next order of business. I started looking at some layout tonight, and I might end up moving the bed aft a few inches to make the pathway between the bed and the sink more comfortable. Either way, Ill buy a sink this week and mock up a cabinet install to see how it fits in relation to the bed and being able to walk past the bed. Its important for me to feel comfortable as I walk around the cabin, and two or three inches in the right spot can make all the difference in how the room feels ( in my amateur opinion).

I think Im going to do some cabinet building in the master cabin before I begin paneling the rest of the hull ( kids bunk room, head, and hallway). I had thought Id not be able to bung one panel on the engine room bulkhead as I might have had to remove it to get my engine control cables from the wheel house to the engine. Now I think Ill route the cables a little different than planned and wont have to remove the panel.

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Boat Plans Stitch And Glue | Cabin Foam

Boat Plans Stitch And Glue

While waiting for parts for the Carver boat, I finished foaming the hull. I used 1800 board feet of material to foam the forward hull area, and Id guess I have a net of 2+ inches on average, maybe closer to 3". As you can see from the pictures, I foamed down to the water line. I did not want to foam below the water line, but I did add insulating beads into my paint to try to minimize condensation below the water line. I did not have enough to foam the anchor chain locker, so Im going to buy a small 200 board foot kit to foam that area. I was really not ready to foam the anchor locker as Ive yet to paint the floor of the chain locker with a rubberized product. I think something like bed liner is what Ill be using to coat the chain locker floor. I will probably also fiberglass over the foam in the chain locker to help protect the foam from getting destroyed by the chain.

I decided to wire the boat after the foaming as I was not too keen on burying wire in the foam. I know Ill have a little bit of a fight getting conduits and wire in now that the foam is in place, but I did spend a day gluing cleats to the hull in strategic spots so Id be able to attached wires, water lines, hydraulic lines and conduits. My plan as of now, is to keep all my electrical stuff up in the ceilings, and all my water and hydraulic lines lower in the hull below the water line. Im going to try and use conduit as much as possible, but Im not opposed to stapling some wires to the framing. My biggest concern is to protect everything and be aware as to not run a screw through any wire as I finish the interior.

Im going to foam the anchor locker myself. Im too far into the foam to bring in a contractor to do such a small job as the chain locker, but I will not do the wheel house and salon myself. Ill be bringing in a contractor to finish those areas some time next year. While Im foaming the chain locker, Im going to foam the engine side of the engine room door. Right now, the engine room door is my weak link in sound deadening, and with a foam job( or left over rock wool), and some sort of liner, I think Ill be able to quadruple its sound rating. Ill have a little engineering involved in keeping the doors grease fittings accessible, but Im not to worried about figuring that one out. My main goal with the engine room door is to give it the ole college try and see what I can do about minimizing sound transmission. If you look at the picture of the engine room door, you can see how thick that wall has become...thick with insulation ( about 7").

The difference in the hull is amazing now that the foam is in. Not only is it much more quiet, the temperature difference is much more noticeable. Once I close things up with the hatch and port lights, I doubt Ill be able to hear any outside noise.

I purchased my foam from www.betterenergy.com, and I was totally happy with the service I got from Michael.

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