Boat Plans And Patterns | Finish lumber

Boat Plans And Patterns

I got a decent start this weekend on getting some finish lumber installed in the master cabin. Im using Cherry veneer plywood for the hull sides and partitions in the master cabin, and a lesser quality ( maybe Birch) for the head, hallway, and kids bunk room.

While I still think the engine rooms steel door jamb could have been a few shades lighter, Im happy as to how it looks vs the white I had initially painted the jamb. Looking at in in this picture, I must say I think it works fine.

Im using #12 1 1/2" brass wood screw to fasten all the plywood. I have a Fuller tapered drill set that does a nice job countersinking for the screw and boring for the wood bung all in one pass. Ive used some cheaper tools for this type of work, and in my opinion the cheaper stuff is junk and not worth ones time messing with. If Id have to guess, Id guess Ive used 150 screws to install the master cabin panels, and most of those will have to be plugged with bungs. Ill cut the bungs from scrap Cherry lumber, then part them on the table saw. Ill probably use a sharp chisel to pare the bung down close, then finish sand the bung with a DA sander to get it flush. Im a little worried about glue stains, but I think if I wipe each bung after tapping it home with a damp cloth, I should keep glue staining to a minimum. Im using a 1/4" x 1 1/4" batten to cover all the butt joints, so I wont have to bung those screws.

I scribed then I belt sanded to the scribe line on all the panels are perpendicular to another panel. Im happy with how the fit and finish has turned out as a playing card wont fit in any of those perpendicular joints.

I used a lower grad plywood where the bed is going because I thought I might be a sheet short. Turns out I was fine on how much material I used, but Im not complaining as you wont see any of the cheaper plywood as its behind the headboard of the bed.

Now that the master cabin space is defined, and the foam is disappearing behind that nice Cherry plywood I will now start laying out for the bed, and the various cabinets Im going to have in the cabin. I chose to have a sink in each cabin, vs a one sink in the head. The size of the master cabin and the size of the bed make installing the cabinet for the sink the next order of business. I started looking at some layout tonight, and I might end up moving the bed aft a few inches to make the pathway between the bed and the sink more comfortable. Either way, Ill buy a sink this week and mock up a cabinet install to see how it fits in relation to the bed and being able to walk past the bed. Its important for me to feel comfortable as I walk around the cabin, and two or three inches in the right spot can make all the difference in how the room feels ( in my amateur opinion).

I think Im going to do some cabinet building in the master cabin before I begin paneling the rest of the hull ( kids bunk room, head, and hallway). I had thought Id not be able to bung one panel on the engine room bulkhead as I might have had to remove it to get my engine control cables from the wheel house to the engine. Now I think Ill route the cables a little different than planned and wont have to remove the panel.

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Dinghy Boat Plans | Bending wood

Dinghy Boat Plans

Im still doing wood work in the master cabin, and Ive been focusing in the bed.

The bed sits on a chest of drawers ( twelve drawers in total). Because our sink is in the master cabin, the walking path between the bed and sink needed to be "just so" in order for me to feel comfortable walking between the two. I moved the bed aft off the center line about 7 inches. The other design feature I wanted to build into the bed was having radius corners at the foot board to help navigate between the sink and the bed. Its amazing how more comfortable it is to walk past a radius corner vs a right angle corner. This, like other projects on the boat, is a fight for inches.

My first inclination was to cut multiple kerfs in the radius pieces to achieve the bend. Because one will see those kerf cuts, I decided not to go that route. I decided to laminate multiple pieces together and bend them around a form.

I re sawed stock into 1/8" staves to get the pieces I would need to do the laminating. I had problems cold bending the staves so I decided to steam bend them with a thrown together steamer and steam box.

I built the steamer out of a piece of square tubing witch I fabricated a base, a lid, and a nipple to accept a piece of radiator hose. The steam box was built out of duct tape and some old 2" rigid insulation I had laying around. I drilled some 1/4" holes in the side of the box to insert welding rods to make shelves for the lumber to sit on. My wifes meat thermometer put a high tech look to the whole contraption.

Once the box got up to 212 degrees, it only took about 20 minutes for the wood to act like a piece of rubber. I had to work quick to get the glue on then get the pieces bent around the form. Another person sure would have been handy, but I managed to pull it off.

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