Small Boat Plans And Kits
To build the salon, I had to jack up the wheel house to get things in the relative position on how the boat decks step up as you move forward ( raised pilot house design). The wheel house is now pretty high above the barn floor, so Im going to have to install a temporary floor to paint along with scaffolding on the exterior of the wheel house.
The door in the salon is off centered to port because the salon table/settee goes on the port side. That port side corner will be nothing but table, so by having the door favor that side, we have more room on the starboard side for other things.
To increase the size of the cockpit I had to alter the bulkhead where the salon door and windows is. Because this wall move forward, I needed to install a 1" filler piece on either side of the bulkhead. This was a fairly small change that has required a little bit of noggin work. The real challenge with moving this wall and the small design change I made to the cockpit was the starboard boarding door I added. Adding the boarding door now requires me to cut the starboard salon side panel in such a way as to not offend the very cool line the designer had originally drawn. I need to put some good though in to cutting this panel to make panel look as if it was not some aborted afterthought.
The other change Im going to make to the salon aft wall is Im going to increase the size of the door going in to the salon. Right now, the door width is 25 1/2". Im going to increase that door size to 32". 32" is not a huge door, but it does feel much better walking through vs the 25" door. The larger door will also make getting the stove and fridge through the opening much more doable. Im still debating on making the door a 36" but that seems large. Since I"m building the doors myself I should probably go larger. I open to suggestions.
The salon roof over hangs the salon wall by 5". The design has a piece of trim that forms a soffit similar to a gutter board on a house. The ceiling Im going to install for the cockpit roof will tie in to this soffit on the same plane and make for a nice, neat looking finish. The ceiling will have about 4" of clearance so I"ll be able to install some LED cans for some nice lighting.From a construction point of view regarding the clearance allowed for ceiling material, I wish that the designer had allowed a little more reveal so that using 3/8 ceiling material would still allow 1/2" of the metal trim piece to be seen. Right now, using 3/8 material will allow less that a 1/4" of reveal, and in my opinion, thats cutting it too close. The last thing I want to see for aesthetics and maintenance, is the ceiling material below the metal trim. I also dont want to use 1/4" ceiling material, but I will it means seeing the ceiling below the trim. Some of the push boats that work up and down the Ohio river have taken to running some accent lighting as they move at night. I think Im going to install three LED cans in the soffit centered above the salon windows for accent lighting. A lot of the push boats use a blue light that I think would look sharp as long as its not to bright.
The salon has 8 windows and all of those are sliders with screens. I went with a dark tint on these windows as I feel the tint helps with the heat.The windows are about 37 x 23... not hatefull huge, but a nice size. Before I paint, Im going to test fit .
I"m a little behind on my schedule as I was wanting to be starting prep work for paint this week. Being realistic, I wont be fully into paint prep work for another week and a half. I still think Ill be finished with painting the super structure by the end of August but its going to be tough. My plasma cutter went down on me today and thats going to slow me down. When you operate on a shoe string as I tend to, small problems can cause delays. I guess the positive aspect of operating on a shoe string is that when small problems pop up, Im flexible and easily able to switch modes.
All in all the super structure has been fun to build, but like I said above, Im ready to be done with it. Another week or so, and I"ll be full blown into paint prep and that will be a good thing. Im sure, as Im now singing the welding blues, Ill be singing the paint prep blues in a few weeks. As you might be able to tell from some of the pictures, the shop is about as full as it can get. Theres still room to work, but it is very tight. Ill be able to take the gantry down once the funnel is in place, and that will help with room. I not so sure Im going to know how to act once the good ship Conall leaves the barn with all the room Im going to inherit.

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The window stool extends past the plywood by 3/4", and will receive a 1/2" bonnet under the stool to trim out the underside of the stool. The window casings will be 1/2" thick and will cover the extension jamb/plywood joint while finishing the trim detail. All the reveals on the windows are a 1/4". I left the jambs off of the window clamp ring by 1/4", the stool will be proud of the bonnet and casings by 1/4", and the casing edge will be 1/4" off the edge of the jamb. The window stool edge was rounded over using a 3/8 round over bit in the router, and all the other edges will be eased by hand sanding.
I used screws to hold down the stools, and all the other parts, jambs, casings, and bonnets are fastened by the nail gun using galvanized finish nails.
The wheel house windows lean out at 7 degrees, but the wall under the widows is plumb as she will sit on her water line. This part of the wheel house wall, the aft salon wall, and the water tight bulkhead on station # 9 are the only plumb walls on board. I created this chase so I could fit hose for a window defroster system and also to house windshield wiper motors.
When its all said and done, the console top will die into the angled companion way top, and a cabinet will be fitted above that as to not interfere or requiring notching the trim of the small window in that corner. 


The first decision I had to make on the wheel house door build was how to build the frame. I found a piece of 2 x 6 x 1/4 " angle at the scrap yard and ripped the six inch side to 4" to match my 4" wheel house frame depth. The angles on the rough opening are a degree off of 90, so a little fitting had to be done before I could tack the frame together. I guess at this point I should say that I TIG welded the wheel house door. The frame was assembled using miters, with all the cuts being made with my miter saw... you gotta love Aluminum. Once the frame was fit in to the opening, I built the actual door frame using some 1" x 2" angle and some 2" flat bar for internal framing.
I had the hinges in the shop, so figuring out the reveal of the door was not too big of a deal.
With hindsight being 20/20, I wish I had used a hinge that did not require a mortise. I ended up having to create a mortise for the hinge in the door, and while not a deal killer for the success of the job, it was sort of a pain.
On As per advice from my paint vendor, I conditioned the aluminum with some material I applied with a spray bottle. The conditioner had to sit on the metal for 15 or 20 minutes, then I hosed the metal clean and let it drip dry. My paint guy said the conditioner is good for 24 for hours, so after baking in the sun for a few hours, I hung the door from some lines and gave it two coats of epoxy primer along with the frame. After priming the door, I faired the ground edge of the door first using West epoxy mixed with fairing compound, then finished with Rage filler sanded to 320 grit. Spot painting two coats of primer on the filler to seal it, then three or four coats of acrylic urethane top coat and the door was ready for assembly. 


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Most every time I show up to work on the boat, I have a small armload of parts or material hauled from the storehouse in the barn. Sunday, before I applied the last coat of urethane on the counter top, I took a couple of hours to clean and re organize some space. Just about every cabin is overflowing with material, parts and tools. But since the salon is the next and last really big wood working project, I had to make room in there. Still to be completed in the salon before the room can be sheathed is to run water lines for the fresh water flush toilet and associated sink along with turning the three 1 1/2" waste lines down in to the lazarette. A few wires need to be pulled along with deciding on where to mount the stereo, but no real big work has to be completed before sheathing can begin..jpg)















































