Boat Plans Stitch And Glue | Whipray hull 2 but really 1 production skiff

Boat Plans Stitch And Glue

This is the first production Whipray hull # 2 built with the side console and the Yamaha that I asked for. Hull # 1 being the one that I built with the rough deck with the first hull out of the mold. This engine had no where near the power for hole shots and speed that the Mercury 25 had. Of all the Mercury engines the 25, 40 and 60 were the best. But! Sheesh could they be a pain in the butt to start at times. I always cringed when doing a test ride with them as it could sometimes take a bit to get one going. I have in my dighys always used Yamaha 15 two strokes which always start on the first pull. By the time I have around 3,000 plus hours on them I give to a friend and get a new one.
In this picture I am poling Rachel around in the new skiff with Flips push pole that has a natural wood crook in it for the foot.
I gave to Chris Petterson owner of HBBWs all the original photos of building the molds and skiff # 1
That was done in St. Augustine Florida under a simple plastic visqueen shed. It would be nice if he posts them some day on his site. More to come.....

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Boat Plans Skiff | Whats with all the fart signs

Boat Plans Skiff

Rachel and I last month went to Sweden to visit my mom. I dont know why but we just cant pass.... Up a good fart sign.

Not a fart sign, just wanted to show you we not all about fart jokes.

I think it means exit in Swedish, Danish 

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Kayak Boat Plans | Scrapping being cheap or Eco friendly

Kayak Boat Plans

Building our place over here in the Bahamas can be very expensive if you cannot do all the work yourself. We have done 98% of the work here with only short term day help with a concrete pour or when plastering. The most fun thing for me is collecting drift wood from along the shore line as we go about exploring . This wood is all in pretty good shape. What we do is flip the board over to use its old hidden side and give it a new life. The bonus is most boards come with their own nails !

All this costs us is some labor a little gas and some imagination to where it will all go.

A $30.00 new board or the same thing with a little history behind it for free? What would you do?

Our dinghy can hold up to 1,500 lbs easily. So its just a matter of stacking and the sea state getting back home.

Ok ... Now we need some to go here and over there.

This walk way all  from the shore line.

We collected all the rocks to cover the outside of our house. The dark rocks are from the Azores to the Cape Verde islands from their beaches.

Remember ! All this wood was once floating in the ocean so you better have a strong boat.

Will be looking for you out there scrapping.

 

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Wood Boat Plans And Kits | Water tanks installation

Wood Boat Plans And Kits

I have eight water tanks for my potable water supply located under the forward sole of my boat. The first tank I built I measured for cubic footage, then filled it with water, and by using a shut off valve and a five gallon bucket I was able to measure the amount of water in the tank. My method of measuring cubic footage and measuring with the five gallon bucket gave me about the same volume of water within two gallons, so Ill stick with measuring for cubic footage vs filling each tank to get volume. I have 325 + gallons worth of water tanks.

After the boat is insulated and Im assembling components of supply, vent, and filling of the tanks, Ill post more regarding the system as a whole.

Im mounting the water tanks using a flange welded to the tank ends and a corresponding bracket welded to the hull of the boat. Where the bracket is deeper in the hull ( by the center line of the boat), I used studs welded to the hull bracket that the tank flange will drop over. On the less deep end of the tank ( outboard ends), I used nuts welded to the hull brackets that the tank flange will bolt to. I used 30 mill pvc pond liner I had laying around the shop to act as a gasket to go between each tank flange and hull bracket.

I had installed the tanks prior to final painting to make sure all the brackets would work and also that the tanks would finish out below the sole framing. I also needed to verify that the valves I was using on the supply end of the tanks would clear all the steel framing. I ended up having to adjust the access holes in the frames for the tank fill lines ( I guess I screwed up on the cut twice measure once thing). 4 3/8" clearance between the front of the tank and the center longitudinal frame of the boat is barely enough ( it fit) room to get a close nipple, valve, close nipple then a "T" for the tank supply. I dont think the Governator would be able to get his arm down in that space to operate this gate valve, but Im able to so Im happy with the final fit. Because I had installed the tanks prior to painting the tank install went fairly smooth. My 13 year old son helped me as the tanks are to large for one person to handle. The only real issue we had was that the amount of paint on the hull brackets caused me to use a tap or a die to clean up the threads on the respective hull bracket. The tanks are a tight fit between the frames so we used as much care as possible lowering each tank into its "bay" so we would not damage the paint. It would take a hard hit to get through all the coats of paint in the bilge area, but I still was very carefull.

I held off installing the tanks as long as possible to try to keep the trash generated from bolting the firing lumber to the frames from getting under the tanks.

Conall

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Boat Plans Pdf | Stability with Water Ballast

Boat Plans Pdf

A potential builder of the Didi 950 asked me a question about stability with water ballast. He could not find an explanation on the Internet describing the effects of water ballast on a boat when capsized, so here it is.

After looking at the stability curve, he was concerned that the stability curve with water ballast to windward, the normal position for sailing in strong winds, has a very large area of negative stability. He wanted to know how that affects the time that the boat will take to right itself if capsized. This is a natural question following the amount of discussion that has been happening after our recent capsize in the Didi 38 "Black Cat" and the very rapid manner in which she returned to upright.

Shown below is the stability graph of the Didi 950 in fully loaded condition; click on the diagram to enlarge it. This is the condition of lowest stability due to the inclusion of crew, stores, liquids and many other weights that are above the centre of gravity (CG) of the boat. There are three curves shown. When looking at the graph, consider that the area enclosed by each curve above the horizontal 0 line is a measure of the energy that is required to take the boat from upright to the point of vanishing stability (AVS) where the curve crosses the 0 line. Until the AVS is reached, the boat will return to upright if no additional heeling force is applied to it.  Beyond the AVS the boat will continue to full capsize unless there is another force being applied that will return it to the positive side of the AVS.

The green curve is with ballast tanks empty, so akin to sailing a boat that has no water ballast. This curve is very similar in form to that of "Black Cat", with the area enclosed by the curve above the 0 line many times greater than the area enclosed by the curve below the 0 line. She would right herself very quickly with no water ballast. The red curve is with the windward ballast tanks filled, good for powering to windward or power-reaching in strong conditions. The blue curve is with the leeward ballast tanks filled. One would not sail her like this but it is a situation that could result from an accidental gybe in strong winds.

Didi 950 Stability Graph. Click to enlarge.

With no wind or waves and the ballast tanks on one side filled, the boat will not rest upright. It will heel over until it stabilises at a heel angle that places the CG vertically in line with the centre of buoyancy (CB). That will be the nearest crossing of the curve with the 0 line, which is at 5 degrees in this case, seen on the blue curve. Add some wind to bring the boat to 0 degrees heel and the righting moment that is working is the point where the red curve hits the left edge of the graph. Without water ballast the boat must heel to 6 degrees to reach the same righting moment. That is where the power benefit is coming from with water ballast, the boat will sail more upright than with empty tanks, in the same wind strength.

Note that all three curves are closely bunched when the boat is heeled 90 degrees. This is a knock-down situation, probably from losing control when driving hard downwind under spinnaker. The mast is horizontal but not in the water. This bunching of the curves at 90 degrees is because of the position of the ballast tanks in this design, low in the boat fairly close to the vertical CG. There would be a bigger spread if the tanks were located high up under the deck.

The red curve shows the benefit of increased righting moment when the windward tank is filled. There is considerably greater gain in stability shown by the red curve than lost stability, shown by the blue curve, when ballast is on the wrong side.

All three curves show that the wind alone cant capsize the boat. When the mast hits the water there is still considerable righting moment available for all three situations. If the boat is in large waves and hit by a big one while knocked flat, the added energy from the wave can capsize the boat in all three situations. 

It seems counter-intuitive but the condition most likely to invert the boat under wave action after a knock-down is with the water ballast to windward (red), i.e. the condition in which the boat will be sailed in strong winds. This is because after the water ballast passes beyond the point where it is vertically above the overall CG of the boat that extra weight is on the wrong side of the CG and is helping to capsize the boat rather than to bring it back to upright. It pulls the red curve below the green curve and reduces the AVS from 133 degrees to 122 degrees. 

Overall it takes more energy to capsize the boat from upright with water ballast than without, evaluated by comparing the area enclosed by the red curve with the area enclosed by the green curve. When the area enclosed by the blue curve is compared with the green curve, there is very little difference. It will take a similar amount of energy to capsize the boat without water ballast and with water ballast on the wrong side, when going from upright. Ironically, the wrong side has the greatest amount of reserve stability after a knock-down and has the greatest angle of AVS, so it is the condition least likely to capsize after a knock-down.

Back to our capsizing boat. Once past 122 degrees it is into a big range of negative stability that shows as the area enclosed by the red curve below the 0 line, taking it all the way to 180 degrees, i.e. totally upside-down. But see that the curve does not return to 0 at 180 degrees, which means that it is unstable at that angle. Same as happens when the boat is upright, the water ballast off to one side prevents the boat from resting at the 180 degree position. It has to rotate to where the CG is vertically aligned with the inverted CB. That is at the point where the curve crosses the 0 line. If the red curve is extended to the zero line it will be to the same angle that the blue curve crosses,  i.e. 160 degrees.
 

There is no windward or leeward when the boat is upside-down, the sails are under water. The boat is stable in the 160 degree position, so leaning 20 degrees to one side of upside-down. It needs to get past the nearest zero crossing to come back to upright. The boat doesnt care which way it goes. It needs a lot of energy to go back the way that it came along the red curve but very little energy to get to the 140 degree AVS crossing of the blue curve. With the motion from just a small wave it will continue past that 140 degree point. Once that point is passed, the righting moment of the blue curve takes control and will return her to upright. If the rig is still standing then the sails will fill and she will be back into the stability situation shown by the red curve. She has capsized along the red curve and righted herself along the blue curve.

In essence, it will take a lot less energy for the boat to right itself with water ballast than without, so she should right herself more quickly with the water ballast. The difference is that without water ballast she can go either way from inverted to upright but with water ballast she has to go full circle.

To visit our website, go to http://dixdesign.com/

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Dinghy Boat Plans | More on Stability with Water Ballast

Dinghy Boat Plans

John Gilbert asked a question in response to my recent post, Stability with Water Ballast.

I do not get why the red and blue curves do not meet up at 180 degrees. Inverted the boat has no windward side as you point out, so you have water ballast on one side and none on the other side. As you have drawn the curves you have powerful stability in the  inverted position with the water on one side (red), but actually a righting moment if you have water on the other side(blue). What is the difference?

To help with understanding this I thought it better to write a new post that expands on the dynamics of stability than to try to answer it in the comments section after that post.

This will be more easily understood by seeing a diagram showing the stability graph expanded through a full 360 degrees rather than all conditions overlaid on top of each other in a 0-180 degree range. This is exactly the same stability info for the Didi 950 as shown in the graph of my earlier post but shown in a different manner.

Diagram of Stability through 360 Degrees

I will start with the green curve. This shows the stability without water ballast. The centre of gravity (CG) is on centreline. The stability curve intersects with the horizontal grid line at 0 degrees heel and increases identically both to left and right of the 0 degree line, so the boat will float without any heel to either side when right way up. The boat will stay that way in the absence of any wind, wave action or crew movement on the boat.

Follow the green curve until it comes down past 130 degrees to again intersect with the horizontal line at the Angle of Vanishing Stability (AVS). Then it enters a range of negative stability where it will proceed toward upside-down. At 170 degrees it crosses to above the horizontal line again. This indicates that the superstructure volume is trying to turn it back upright and doesnt want the boat to lie totally inverted. It will easily flop back and forth between the 170 and 190 degree points. The boat can return to upright along either green curve.

This all depends on a totally waterproof superstructure, of course. In practice water is likely to enter the boat at a rate that depends on what is open at the time, which will affect the inverted stability. 

Moving on to the stability with water ballast, in my earlier post I said that the boat will capsize along the red curve and recover along the blue curve. I explained the relationship between the two curves but that relationship is not easy to visualise if only seen across the 180 degree range.

In the diagram above you can see that the red and blue curves only meet in two places and both are on the horizontal line. These are the two points at which the boat will rest when there are no outside influences from wind, waves or crew movement.

The boat cannot rest totally upright nor totally upside-down because the weight of the water to one side is heeling it toward that side. It will rest at approximately -5 degrees heel instead of upright and at 200 degrees instead of upside-down when inverted.

Bearing in mind that the areas of the curves below the horizontal line indicate how much energy it needs for the boat to get past the AVS points so that it can right itself when in that 200 degree situation, it is now easy to see that it will take a large amount of wave energy to get past the AVS of the red curve but a very small amount of wave action to get past the AVS of the blue curve.

This graphic shows that if a water ballasted boat capsizes it will do so along the red curve but it is very unlikely to return along that same path, nor is it likely to stay capsized for long. Once past the AVS of the red curve the negative stability will push it to 20 degrees past upside-down. After that the blue curve will take over and almost guarantee that the boat returns to right-way-up pronto.

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Pontoon Boat Plans | Presto ! And Hogfish Maximus

Pontoon Boat Plans

The yacht designer Rodger Martin and his wife Patty have stopped by our place in the Bahamas a couple of times on their way south and going north. They trailer the Presto down from New Port RI and  launch her in Florida were they start their winter cruise .The Presto is a magnificent sailing machine. She sails like a dream and is very comfortable to be on. I thought she would be very jumpy because of the light weight of her concept. She does move about for her weight but is still very pleasent to be on at anchor. Under sail she is fast and fun. 

This boat is perfect for short term cruising with minimal stuff aboard. By this I mean a few months and to not bring your hard back book collection , and every tool for every occasion with you. Add weight ,loose speed. To make this boat go as fast as she does she has to be built very strong and light. To do this Rodger has engineered a very high tech light weight hull and spars. This boat is not cheap to build.

$185,000.00 and upwards are what they go for. To build in strip plank with aluminum spars and a simpler interior going lower tech will still cost to build by an amature at around $80,000.00 plus at best for materials. I was asked to build 2 similar boats and did the cost analysis  .

The wood boats will not be as fast as the cored boats with the god awfull expensive carbon masts.

I would love to race a Presto in the Carribean regattas for a season with a bunch of heavy mates for rail meat. This boat would kick butt.

Here we are rafted together behind our place.

 

Notice the size of Prestos spars, very small. Aluminum ones would be twice a big around. Also look at the freeboard of both boats. Hogfish Maximuses cabin top- deck is almost as low as Prestos. The spars and booms built by Hall Spars cost as much as what I built the HFM for originally.

The front dinghy is the one we carry on deck and use as our life boat and all around truckster. It weighs 130 lbs. 

Rodger and Patty Martin at our house.

Sailing south... See you you guys out there!

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Boat Plans Wooden | Power Steering

Boat Plans Wooden

Im working on the power steering but really dont have much to post in terms of pictures. Most of the work right now revolves around routing the hydraulic lines, drilling holes, and mounting all of the bulkhead fittings. All the lines have been routed and are in the back of my truck ready for a trip to the hydraulic shop where Chuck will smash the ends on.

My hydraulic steering system is basically a power steering system. I have a pump that is driven off of a gear that runs off of the timing gear on the engine. I have a six gallon reservoir for the hydraulic fluid and a filter in the return line. The engine mounted pump drives my helm pump which is what the steering wheel bolts too via a 3/4" tapered, keyed shaft. The helm pump then sends fluid to a dual ram steering quadrant that turns the rudder. This is a pretty simple system that is what I would call robust, and should give me decades of trouble free service.

Im still waiting on the pump drive adapter from Deere, but that should be in this week and Ill then be able to finalize the installation and start posting some pictures.

Heres another diagram showing how the auto pilot solenoid valve will plumb in to the circuit.

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Boat Plans Wood | Photos Of Metal Wastage Caused By Trapped Water

Boat Plans Wood

Here are some photos of what trapped water and moisture will do to a metal hulled boat. This is not to meant sway anyone from buying or owning a metal boat, I own one myself. It is to give all of us a reminder though, that we need to be diligent in maintaining and inspecting our boats. Speaking of inspecting a metal boat, I had a very good comment on the last post from a former client. He has a process that is very impressive when it comes to inspecting a metal boat for purchase. I encourage anyone who is wanting to buy a metal boat or any boat for that matter to do their own close inspection before putting an offer on a boat and hiring a surveyor. I also would advise the seller of a metal boat to hire a surveyor to inspect the boat before listing it. It is important any issues are known about before the boat goes on the market. Too often a person turns down a boat during my inspections. I would much prefer to be part of a happy exchange of a boat then not.

Saltwater was trapped in a keel of an aluminum boat that was filled with foam and lead. The boat got a new redesigned bulb keel.

This is where salt water has dried in a bilge of an aluminum hulled boat.

A view from the exterior of the same boat.

 

This is where water had sat for years on the inside of this steel boat, good news she was made as good as new.

A lot of time these problems are found while the bottom of a boat is sandblasted or a paint blister is ground down for a repair. Which is what happened in the photo below.

So what do we do to make sure we can find these problems?

Refer to the previous post for the answer:

The need of keeping water out of the bilge of a steel boat

and visit more my website for more information about my services.

dbyachtsurvey.com

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Boat Plans Pdf | Home Grown

Boat Plans Pdf

Every time I do a clearing job and have the ability to take some Cherry trees, I bring them to my neighbor, and he saws them into lumber for me. I have two stacks this size of Cherry thats been air drying in the loft of the shop for a few years , and its time I finally get to use some of it.

If I were to guess, Id guess that I have well over a thousand board feet stashed away in the barn. Its a good feeling to finally be able to use some of this fine lumber and get on with some finish wood working.

Even though this is not perfectly clear lumber one might find in a wood workers supply house, I do get quite a bit of interesting looking grain including curly and birds eye. I try to be keep a close eye on things when Im pulling a piece out of the pile, but until you run it through the planer, its always a mystery how it will look once planed. I love the straight grained clear lumber, but I also love the wild crotch grain or the funky look you get from the birds eye grain. Cherry has always been my favorite wood to work with. It machines well, glues and holds a screw great, and I love how it darkens with age.

Going the rough sawn lumber route is a little more work for me, but the price is right. I love not having to head off to the lumber supply house and I for sure love the fact that Im keeping more cash in my pocket.

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Pontoon Boat Plans | Didi 950 in Australia

Pontoon Boat Plans

Fred Grimminck in Queensland, Australia, has previously built a boat to our Didi Mini design. Now he is building a Didi 950. In contrast to the boat of Mike Vermeersch that I showed yesterday, Fred is building his boat from scratch, marking and cutting the plywood panels himself from our drawings.

Today I have received photos from Fred of his project. He is at the same stage as Mike but the different perspective of his photos shows the details from different angles to help visualise how it all goes together. Click on the photos to enlarge.

Bottom panels fitted, bow view

In this photo you can see how the bottom panels are slightly Veed aft but the V increases toward the bow and the flat panels become very fine, both features to soften the ride when the boat is planing fast in lumpy water and slamming over short waves can become uncomfortable. The edges of the panels land on the doublers of the tangent stringers at the intersections of flat and radiused skin panels. The edges are rebated to half-thickness, with the first layer of radius plywood landing on the doubler and the second layer landing on the rebate, forming a Z-shape joint detail.

Ready for side panels to start

 In the photo above, the doubler at the upper tangent is in place and part of the lower side panel is clamped in place, seen at bottom right. The left edge of this panel has been planed to form the sloping surface for the scarph joint to the next piece, the main difference from the jigsaw joints of Mikes kit. Also visible in this photo, are scarph joints in some of the stringers. These appear to have been glued in place on the hull. The alternative is to pre-glue them into long lengths before installing in the boat.

Interior view of transom and cockpit area

The photo above shows some of the interior detail. The transom is 9mm plywood but has doublers to strengthen it around the perimeter, at the backbone and at the rudder hardware. You can see the plywood backbone passing through the bulkhead ahead of the transom. These intersections are self-locating egg-crate detailing to assist with accuracy during setting up the skeleton. The backbone is on centreline in bow and stern but changes to a pair of backbones offset from centreline from forward of the mast through to the cockpit.

A major difference between the two boats of Mike and Fred is in the keel detailing. Mikes boat has a fixed bulb keel that hangs from an internal support box that is bolted between the two components of the double backbone. The support box also holds the engine beds and bearers, sited directly over the keel. Freds boat will have a lifting keel. It will be housed in a modified keel support box of identical footprint but with integrated casing for the lifting keel and without the engine beds. Freds engine will be a saildrive unit located under the companionway and front of the cockpit.

There are also boats to the Didi 950 design beign built in Greece and Latvia. Watch this blog for news on all of them.

Go to http://dixdesign.com/ to see our full range of designs.

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Boat Plans Aluminium Australia | Back to work on the boat

Boat Plans Aluminium Australia

Its been a while since Ive made a post but Im happy to say that Im back to working on the boat. Life seems to get in the way of things we want to do, and Ive recently had a run in with just such an episode. Getting the house ready for winter, a short lived uptick in my business ( business is still way down and dropping), pulling the Caver boat out of the water and winterizing, cutting firewood for the shop and house, blah, blah, blah. I"ll quit bitching now, but Im sure all who might read this will be able to relate.

The next job at hand on Conalls big boat build is to finish getting ready for the insulator to do his thing. I need to finish painting the engine room witch is turning into quite a bit of unfinished business. My list of what needs to be done in the engine room is as follows:

- Install the generator and weld in all the fittings for the water lift exhaust system.
- Weld close the generator access hole.
- Install ac and dc electric conduits and various junction boxes and fixture boxes.
- Install the center baffle on the exhaust/intake trunk
- Re-prime the engine room with etching primer, then top coat with Alkyd Enamel
- Install all the wood firing.

This is the abbreviated version of my list as I still have ac and dc conduit work to do in the master stateroom, forward cabin, and head. All in all I would have to guess that Ill have a solid month worth of work to get her to the point of being ready to insulate.

I"ll start to post some pictures as I move forward. Ive found that this boat building thing seems to go a little easier if I break the "big boat build" down into about 80,000 smaller jobs that make up the "big boat build". I might continue this post and add to it as I mover forward, or Ill post a separate entry for each of the micro jobs I get finished.

Conall

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Boat Plans Wooden | Shallow water skiff shapes ideas

Boat Plans Wooden

Here are some of my old musings of developing skiff shapes to bring to reality. As I described earlier in my blog of how I like to make a half hull of my vision - idea . I do this after I have done all my weight calculations in advance. Shown are a few past ideas in their growth stages. Sorry but I would love to be able to do this all properly but all I have is the iPad that I got for Christmas this year from my daughters. With out this contraption I probably would not take the time to do all this. Right now it is flat calm with lots of light rain about so Im inside with a fan on doing something. The iPad is great as I can do this stuff with a simple inverter on our sailboat as we move about and post it later. No TV time in my life so have extra time to fiddle here.

So look at the wood half hull against the mirror. The sections are glued to a 1/4" piece of wood,without this it would sit flush against the mirror with the thickness of the mirror being the center line. This is how it was done before 3 D programs . It does make you feel like a peeping Tom though as you stretch around trying to see the whole thing. Each section is drawn out from the center line to scale. Here you can calculate how many cubic inches are in each section. I do not have the side views showing which would tell and show you the distance between each section. It would not show up here very well.

What I will do this summer is draw up 3-4 new skiff shapes from past knowledge with all dimensions easy to draw up to full size hull sections. These you will be able to cut out and install on a simple building jig and from there you will be able to plank up in light cedar strips, Baltec balsa core strips or Core Cell brand planking strips. From this you fair and then glass the outside. When fair, flip over,

remove the forms and glass the insides. Then you finish the inside. To build a deck I will explain all the ways it can be done simply later. I will put this here for free. In the mean time anyone planning on building a skiff needs to read up a bit on strip plank boat building. This is the same as building a canoe; just a little more odd shape and it has a transom. I will get a list of books or pamphlets to look up.

In looking at these shapes it is easy to start to see how many ways and directions you could now reshape and go. Ha, it can be daunting if you do not have a weight list and a clue as to what the finished hull will weigh. Here I come back to having the vision, idea, whatever. Details. 

Of course if you are going to start a new company and you want to follow in the foot steps of something that is already well proven and established then all you really have to do is make a facsimile of it as all the thinking has already been done for you. If you do make it better, and at a better price good for you. 

Now with all the shapes here you still have to decide on which side of the half section line you will put your hull thickness. Makes a difference . Take your numbers from the center line out wards and up to the LWL. This is the quickest way. This method shown here has been used for centuries with the creations of some of the most beautiful boats in the world. Go to see the Herreshoff museum in New port RI. He did all his boats this way. There is not a Yankee boat builder up north that does not know this system nor a Carolina one either. The computer today is the way to go though if you have one.

  Another idea; this shows how you can take an existing boat today and measure or take its lines sections. Without knowing its length between perpendiculars you could stretch this boat out to ......

In this shape here I wanted a good sea boat at rest that would not be as they say here too "cranky" .

It has good freeboard and was a good all round skiff. I lowered the spray rail on this a bit in the bow area when built. Today I would change the stern section aft so this is obsolete in my mind.

 You can see the half sections above and the half hull below. 

Cheap 3 - D rendering 

You can see here how Im drawing in a bit of crown. I like crown a lot. It adds tremendous strength over a flat surface. Also you can gain some Disp. But then you have to be careful where its going to direct the water flow. I do not want crown in my skiff decks as it is a pain in the butt to fit the hatches so the will not squeak and lay flush. 

On this sheet you can see the displacement calculation that I wrote down from a simple lines program that I found on the Internet at the time. I put in all my half section numbers and in a second it spit out all these numbers. I had already done it my old way and every thing was pretty close. In the upper left corner you can see the displacement numbers for three different water lines. This you have to think about a lot as the guys, people that will be in the boat, are most likely going to weigh over 200 lbs.

The rest of the numbers there are just adding up Disp. If I posted all my calculation sheets it would be so boring. But I keep em for reference. This is a heavy skiff at close to 2,000 lbs with all the sports in it.

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